Ten years ago I hadn’t even heard the term canicross. I don’t have a source to site, but have always assumed it was derived from ‘canine’ and ‘cross-country’ (long distance) running. Canicross has a much larger presence in European countries, which I am completely envious of, but it has yet to really get a foothold in the US as an organized or competitive sport. Luckily though, it is an easy solo endeavor and is an activity I have done off and on since I acquired my first dog more than 10 years ago. It made sense. My dog needs exercise, I love to run, let’s do it together!
Easier said than done. It usually doesn’t work perfectly the first time. Dogs like to dart, zig-zag, suddenly stop and sniff the grass, get under your feet, double back, mark everything, and just stop dead to listen to a cricket in the distance. Not exactly a runner’s dream companion.
So how do you turn your favorite furry companion into a sleek disciplined running mate? Let’s talk! But let’s start at the beginning.
I am going to post a three-part (or maybe four-part) series on my method for training a puppy, or inexperienced adult, to be the ultimate Canicross companion. Then you and your furry pal can hit the trails too!
First, we’ve got to talk basics and set the foundation for success:
- Breed Logistics – It probably doesn’t need to be said but I’m going to say it anyway. Not all breeds are cut out for this! If you’re thinking of harnessing up your Pug for a brisk run down the trail… just please don’t. Canicross is not the sport for you and Pugsly to be spending quality time together, unless of course you’ll be pushing him in the doggy jogging stroller. That would be thrilling!
There are plenty of breeds capable of long distance running and they have a few things in common. They tend to be lean, flexible, of a medium 35-75 lb size, and a longer snout. (Not those with Brachycephalic Syndrome, ie. the smooshed face). So think of your leggy working class dogs: retrievers, hounds, huskies (Alaskan or Sibes), and plenty of others and combinations therein. You’ll know if your dog is up to task or not. Just make sure they think it’s always really fun. My breed of choice is of course huskies and I will explain why.
- Tapping Into Your Dog’s Natural Drive – There is a difference between ‘willing to run’ and ‘wanting to run’. Quite simply, it’s drive. Humans have it in varying degrees, and so do dogs. One thing humans have done a sizable job of is messing with canine ancestry, selective breeding, and conforming emerging breeds to perform specific tasks and instill a ‘natural’ drive to do these things. So while a Pointer may be athletically built, its tendency is to stick close to its owner, hunting, and finding fallen prey. That’s all well and good but it might not be mentally cut out for long distance running. So we need a dog bred for distance travel, with a deeply rooted hunger to run… enter huskies! When I say ‘husky’ I refer to a broad range. Picture your all purpose sled dog, which most nowadays are mutts with some combination Siberian/Hound, and are bred for running endurance and mental fortitude. Why is this so important?
If your dog is as hard-core a runner as you it will make the experience much more enjoyable for both of you. Imagine waking up before dawn, gearing up, and hitting the beach for a sunrise run with your four-legged friend. Perfectly in sync, both loving the moment together before you tackle the rest of your day.
- The vital importance of temperature. – The evolutionary reason humans are covered in sweat glands and have very little hair on their bodies is quite simply to be able to exert themselves for long periods of time in warm weather. Dogs do not have sweat glands on most of their body, in fact only on their feet, and they all have fur coats of some varying thickness. So a husky can dominate the cold, but even a short run on a warm day can put them at dangerous risk of heat stroke. So you MUST keep your runs to cooler temperatures. For dogs with shorter, thinner coats, such as Hounds and Labradors, a comfortable rule is the ‘Max 150’. So take the outside temperature in degrees Fahrenheit plus the level of humidity, and if the total is less than 150 then you’re probably safe for a run.
- Example: 50 Degrees F + 50% humidity = 100 = safe conditions
- Example: 80 Degrees F + 80% humidity = 160 = unsafe conditions
- For dogs with thick or downy fur, I would actually keep this equation closer to a total of 100 and a temperature no higher than 60 Degrees F. Ideally you would be working in temperatures 50 F and below to be safe.
While running watch your dog closely. Extremely heavy panting and/or sluggishness are sure signs of heat exhaustion. The elevated levels reaching heat stroke may be accompanied by vomiting, lethargy, dark pink gums, collapse, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, and if left unchecked can lead to death. So keeping your dog cool is key. Plenty of water is vital and this could be drinking water or submersing water. Some people keep a kiddie pool full of water available for a quick post-run soak, or if you have pleasantly tepid water coming from your garden hose you could use that to wet your dog down. Use the garden hose with caution though. If it comes out icy cold as is often the case with well water, or city sourced water in colder regions, applying this directly to your dog could shock its system and have very unpleasant side effects. So make sure it feels like a tepid bath water and your dog will love it!
- Let’s talk paws – Dog paws are like our human feet. They’re really important! You can’t run on painful feet and your doggy friend cannot run on sore paws, although some will really try. Your dog can’t articulate to you what’s wrong, and even if she has sore paws, your dog may try to ignore it and accompany you anyway, because that’s what dogs do. So as the awesome doting owner you are, it’s important to take care of those precious paws and make sure they’re in tip top running condition. And if they’re not, take a little break from running. Things which greatly wear at your dog’s paws are running on asphalt or concrete. I cringe every time I see a dog trotting down a sidewalk with its owner comfortably running behind, in protective, padded, rubber soled, running shoes. Seriously! Have a bit of sense and imagine what that feels like – a human made surface with abrasive texture, no shock absorption, and a sure way to stress your dog’s pads and joints. Please, please take pity and avoid this! Grass, dirt trails, soft fallen leaves, fresh powdery snow… these are all great paw friendly surfaces.
- Booties? Well yes there are ‘shoes for dogs’, however these should be used with caution, especially in warmer areas. Remember how your dog has sweat glands on its paws? Well imagine what happens to you if your sweat glands are covered and evaporation cannot occur – you overheat. Booties should also not be relied upon to enable running on asphalt or concrete as the surface provides additional hazards to a dog’s body. And not all booties are created equal; an improper size, design, or fit can cause even more serious issues for your dogs paws or joints. Instead I prefer to just look for a soft running surface. I will make one last point though and mention the sled dogs you see in long distance races sporting a nice set of booties use those to protect the paw pads from abrasive surfaces and also prevent ice balls forming on the fur between their paw pads. But note they are still mostly running on snow or other more forgiving surfaces – not asphalt and concrete!
Lastly, I want to stress the importance of looking out for your dog’s overall physical condition. It is up to you to monitor closely for strains, sprains, soreness, and everything else your dog cannot tell you about directly. So use your keen observation and be willing to give your dog down time from the trails if you see any sign of injury, illness, or long lasting fatigue.
I could keep going but will stop there and save more for next time, when we start to get into the fun stuff, like equipment and proper fueling.
Stay tuned!